Etheridge, Elena (2018) Pattern making for new fabric joining technologies. Masters by Research thesis (MA), Manchester Metropolitan University.
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Abstract
Fabric joining methods of welding and bonding can bring new possibilities to garment design and construction, offering a number of benefits over traditional sewing. Current applications are mostly limited to sports apparel, performance wear and lingerie, due to the functional benefits that they can bring to garments. These technologies have unexploited potential in fashion clothing and offer benefits to the manufacturing process by simplifying many traditional cut and sew construction methods and reducing seam components. The process of developing garments with these new technologies, however first requires a fundamental understanding of their technical capabilities. The research examines how a design practice-based enquiry can be used to develop and adapt approaches to pattern making that consider new fabric joining technologies. Taking inspiration from historical pattern cutting approaches and strategies for design, allows for a consideration of the production methods and technology throughout the design process. The practice output of this investigation is a series of contemporary women’s wear pieces that evidence the development of a pattern making approach that incorporates welding and bonded constructions to offer new design possibilities and consider manufacturing efficiencies. The study highlights the need for a holistic design approach that considers the technical capabilities and constraints of the joining technologies.
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