Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) to tackle over sixty billion square metres of fabric wastage during mass production of apparel

Ramkalaon, Shreshta and Muhammad Sayem, Abu Sadat ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3034-7892 (2021) Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) to tackle over sixty billion square metres of fabric wastage during mass production of apparel. Journal of the Textile Institute, 112 (5). pp. 809-819. ISSN 0039-8357

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Abstract

This paper for the first time demonstrates the application of the concept of Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) into mass production of apparel to tackle over 60 billion square metres of scrap fabrics being produced by the fashion industry annually. A strategic framework for implementing ZWPC for multiple sizes of clothing was first developed, then applied and tested on two styles of garments in multiple sizes. Digital pattern cutting and marker making techniques were used to design and cut pattern pieces of different sizes of garments for same style. Physical prototypes were made, and wearer trials were done to check the fit of clothing. It was found that over 98% of fabric utilisation was achieved for both styles, while in traditional industrial practice over 85% is considered impossible. This indicates that the strategic framework for implementing ZWPC in mass production of clothing is effective to result in a much cleaner production. This leads to the development of a ZWPC paradigm for the apparel industry and a novel apparel design process. This framework can be further improved by testing with many different styles of garments being manufactured by the fashion industry today. This will bring a huge practical implication to the apparel industry by offering a leaner and cleaner production strategy.