Sustainable Product Development in the UK Fast Fashion Supply Chain: Exploring Solutions for a Sustainable Fashion Industry

Cousins, Catrin (2025) Sustainable Product Development in the UK Fast Fashion Supply Chain: Exploring Solutions for a Sustainable Fashion Industry. Masters by Research thesis (MPhil), Manchester Metropolitan University.

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Abstract

This study explores the business practices relating to product development in the UK fast fashion sector and their implications for environmental sustainability. The UK fast fashion sector has achieved significant growth in recent years, driven by online-only ultra-fast fashion brands’ strategy of low-cost and quick turnaround of trend-led products made available to the mass market within weeks. However, the sector has faced increased scrutiny over its negative environmental impact, due to the overproduction of poor quality, synthetic garments which are only worn a handful of times before ending up in landfill (Niinimaki et al, 2020). If current strategies continue unchanged, fast fashion is on a trajectory that will exacerbate environmental damage by 2030. Most research on the UK fast fashion sector focuses on working conditions and labour rights not environmental sustainability, so there is an urgent need for an up-to-date and comprehensive understanding of current working practices in fast fashion product development. Drawing on the theoretical frameworks of Triple Bottom Line (TBL) (Elkington, 1997) and the Natural Resource Based View (NRBV) (Hart, 1995), and empirical data gathered from key actors within the UK fast fashion supply chain, this study maps existing product development practices and explores the gaps between the principles of product stewardship and industry practice. It explores attitudes, knowledge and levels of commitment within brands and suppliers towards environmentally responsible product development practices, including the use of sustainable materials and packaging, green production processes and waste management. It also examines the barriers to implementing sustainable product development practices and how UK fast fashion organisations can overcome these challenges to develop products built around the core principles of product stewardship. A qualitative research approach was taken to gain depth of insight and capture lived experiences of actors. Twenty semi-structured interviews were conducted with key actors involved in product development across fast fashion brands and suppliers and interview transcripts were interpreted using a reflexive thematic analysis approach. Findings reveal that the fast fashion sector remains focused on profit and survival in an increasingly challenging environment, where cost and speed to market are paramount. The power imbalance between buyers and suppliers, and the perception that fast fashion consumers (and brands) show very little interest in sustainability has resulted in a resistance to change, denial of responsibility and a reactive approach to implementing sustainable practices. Ultimately, a change in organisational culture is needed for the fast fashion sector to integrate environmental sustainability within product development practices and move beyond the current scenario which is largely limited to the use of recycled materials. This work makes a valuable contribution to existing knowledge by critically analysing the disconnect between sustainability principles and current practices, offering important insights into the specific challenges facing UK fast fashion organisations in adopting environmentally responsible product development practices. Keywords: Fast Fashion, Product Development, Sustainability, Supply Chain, Sustainable Product Development