Development of an optimised garment sizing system with bust cup size integration

Dove, Tanya Louise (2023) Development of an optimised garment sizing system with bust cup size integration. Doctoral thesis (PhD), Manchester Metropolitan University.

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Abstract

This study addressed practical problems with garment fit of non-stretch woven clothing for females of various body sizes and shapes. Literature highlights that this is still problematic for consumers and practitioners, especially with inconsistencies in the sizing of clothing. The research sought to develop a pattern-cutting framework of sizes within sizes for the mass production of women’s non-stretch woven upper body clothing. The study systematically reviewed historical and commercial size charts, sizing approaches and theories to raise key questions and address gaps within theory and practice. The three main questions leading to the development of its contribution to knowledge were: (1) Does adding bust cup integration into non-stretch bodice blocks improve the fit of women’s upper body clothing? (2) Would grading by percentage increments improve clothing fit, especially for larger sizes? (3) How can a pattern-cutting framework be efficiently developed and made commercially viable for mass production? It employed three phases of quantitative and qualitative data collection methods and analytical processes. These include a review of sizing systems and charts, application of body measurements data generated by a 3D body scanner, experimental pattern and garment development with fit trials, consumer assessments and statistical analysis of sizing data. The study utilised a triangulation approach to establish its final results. Focusing on anthropometric data and pattern construction theories, this study has applied an anthropometric bust cup percentage system to establish and practically test a pattern-cutting framework, which primarily underscores bust cup integration in the construction of clothing patterns to achieve optimal female garment fit. This system accommodates different bust cup sizes and figure shapes within a body size. It contributes to knowledge within this field of interest.