A Reverse Approach to Virtual Shirt Prototyping and Pattern Cutting

Muhammad Sayem, AS (2016) A Reverse Approach to Virtual Shirt Prototyping and Pattern Cutting. In: The 90th Textile Institute World Conference, 25 April 2016 - 28 April 2016, Poznan, Poland.

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Abstract

Traditional virtual clothing prototyping is achieved by wrapping 2D pattern pieces on virtual mannequins. This paper describes a reverse approach that develops 3D garments first and unwraps 2D pattern pieces out of them. To achieve this, a 3D drawing board for men’s upper body outerwear was developed from bodyscan data by employing reverse engineering and geometric modelling techniques. The drawing platform was made scalable by integrating 12 size parameters that were found appropriate for loose-fitting shirt so that 3D grading in space can also be realised. This 3D platform can easily be used by fashion designers to develop virtual shirts by drawing simple lines and curves and by applying mesh generation tool, and to extract 2D pattern pieces automatically if an appropriate flattening engine is available within a 3D CAD environment. It has been found that a variety of shirt and jacket designs can be developed on this 3D platform. However, difficulties were faced with raglan sleeve and one-piece collar. This paper also describes the effects of technical parameters on mesh generation and pattern flattening processes.